Differential abundance analysis of infant 16S microbial sequencing data is complicated by challenging data properties, including high sparsity, extreme dispersion and the relative nature of the information contained within the data. In this study, we propose a pairwise ratio analysis that uses the compositional data analysis principle of subcompositional coherence and merges it with a beta-binomial regression model. The resulting method provides a flexible and easily interpretable approach to infant 16S sequencing data differential abundance analysis that does not require zero imputation. We evaluate the proposed method using infant 16S data from clinical trials and demonstrate that the proposed method has the power to detect differences, and demonstrate how its results can be used to gain insights. We further evaluate the method using data-inspired simulations and compare its power against related methods. Our results indicate that power is high for pairwise differential abundance analysis of taxon pairs that have a large abundance. In contrast, results for sparse taxon pairs show a decrease in power and substantial variability in method performance. While our method shows promising performance on well-measured subcompositions, we advise strong filtering steps in order to avoid excessive numbers of underpowered comparisons in practical applications.